‘Every Cook Ought to Train Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.